In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Your mechanical advance will naturally change the timing a bit but it should be fairly close. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. If I cruise down the road at lets say 60 mph and lay into it, she will take off and go. Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. Also its extremely rich at idle. Then do it just a bit faster--just enough for it to bog a bit. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. So I had my Idle set up perfect, with idle timing control off and engine hot the IAC was right at 2-4%. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. I installed a sniper efi system on my 1969 Camaro. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. Going back to what you said. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. Several good bits here. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. Is this normal ? This is actually more troubling than the sound you originally described. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, The IAC should display a 2-8% to bring the idle up to the actual target. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. Have a look--I think this is going to allow you to fix your idle problem. I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. normal city driving, I no longer have other problems I had with the original I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. However, I have never found that to be the case. such high fuel pressure. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). Data logs show no EMI/RFI. Thank you. An under-sized filter will allow part- throttle operation but fuel pressure will drop at WOT and run very lean - perhaps surge under power. Thanks for any info./insight you can provide, Mark. They tell you to ask call Holley. At this time, TPS is 0%, IAC is 50 to 60%. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. That is the IAC hold position. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. Once you confirm the operation of your IAC then it's time to read my article on Solving RFI Problems. I have verified that there are no vacuum leaks, not to mention the car runs to good to have a vacuum leak bad enough to make this noise. started up the engine. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. Idle > IAC Kick. OK, I did the baseline idle speed screw setting. It's not that they (or any other manufacturer) is 100% perfect. Thanks for the info Chris. Second--even in the HP and Dominator systems where a fuel pressure sensor can be dalogged and displayed, the fuel pressure is not fed back into the algorithm. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. ps. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. I would recommend that you call first thing in the morning, as they tend to get quite busy during the day and wait times can get long. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. Good Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. My problem is low idle. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) It didnt do this with the carb on it. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. Short drives is fine then it'll This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. Once you know that then you can work on those problems. I can get it to fire up on the If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. I tried adjusting my IAC up to 10deg in both directions with no change. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. :-). Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. I recently install a sniper efi. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use That's a nice change of pace--a low idle issue! Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. Please help. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. What should I be looking at to calm this down? Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. Not to bandstand here but this is the point when where you bought your system is so important. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. It may take a few tries. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. What might cause the TPS to go to 2%? The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. I'll have to check again tomorrow. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. Car was running great initially. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. >I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? I will turn it up some. Or, at least, it should. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. What can I do? But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. If you're having issues with your Holley Sniper IAC getting stuck at 20, there are a few things you can try to fix the problem. The team at Holley has designed the perfect solution for your problems. Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. I never had a problem with this. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. I would suspect something is coming loose causing a stop to the EFI system/Fuel flow. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." Hang in there--you can do it. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. Seems to be working. Some advanced conceptsIf you have the Sniper Can-Bus to USB Adapter, you can connect your laptop, open the software to the learn table, and get a visual for where in the table you are experiencing the lean bog. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. Its timed to 36 degrees. Hope this helps! I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. Do you have a PCV on the engine? We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. First, let me congratulate you on your patience in letting the system learn. Please advise. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the What would cause the idle to faulter like that? EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. Is this an issue to worry about? And, hopefully, within those degrees you will find a place where you don't get the whistle. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after Yes, you are correct. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. It's called tuning. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. Should the iac% fluctuate?
Vailsburg High School Yearbook,
Jennifer Reed Blogger Net Worth,
Articles H